We didn’t even bother to check out the beach break. The Jesus Point was working and that’s all we needed to know.
I immediately grabbed my things, went out and hailed a taxi. I was thinking positive inside the cab but I was already hating myself if I ever do miss my flight.
Normally I’m the kind of guy who’s mellow about things. But lately I’m being too hard on myself and it frustrates me. I’m talking particularly about my surfing. Yeah I know. Surfing’s supposed to be just about having fun right?…
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