Normally I’m the kind of guy who’s mellow about things. But lately I’m being too hard on myself and it frustrates me. I’m talking particularly about my surfing. Yeah I know. Surfing’s supposed to be just about having fun right? Well I guess I’m not having fun by just having fun anymore. I love stylin’ but stylin’ doesn’t cut it anymore. I wanna get technical.
Last time I was bummed about a missed section and now I am bummed about a missed backside snap from last Saturday’s session at the Point. I did get good rides and I was able to execute moves but silly as it may sound, the bad rides outweigh the good rides more. Everyone’s been saying that I got good style and that I’ve gotten better. Thank you if you feel that way. But you know what? When it comes to technical surfing, I am a beginner and it sure feels like one.
Do not laugh. Saturday night I really got depressed thinking about my surfing mistakes. I got drunk on rum at Surfstar – the most happening place in all of San Juan, La Union. Now when men get drunk and begin to get emotional they’re probably going through a breakup or a crippling life crisis. Not me. I got emotional about my surfing and got depressed. The locals were actually consoling me! Imagine that, I got emo on longboarding. How sad TJ, oh how sad. Sometimes I wish I could slap me in the face.
Anyway, I have gotten over it and I’m taking on a personal challenge – to focus more on technical surfing. Critical drops, cutbacks, nose riding, etc. I’m getting great advice from people and I’m soaking them all in. I’m sure I’ll get frustrated again on my next session. But hey, that’s surfing. It looks easy but it isn’t but I will try. Always. Got to catch more and more waves and practice.
So less style, more technical. Funny, what I learn in surfing I also can relate to the other aspects in my life. I know I have focused on looking good and feeling good most of my life. Maybe now is the time to actually be good; to be sharp and ambitious and to continually improve. I want to be a better surfer. Hopefully with it I also become a better person.
What the hell I AM NOT drinking RUM why am I getting emotional here?!! Well okay. I’ll admit. I am drinking San Mig Apple. Umm. Should we also add less booze to the challenge?
Yours truly emotional,