Early Days of Surfing

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Early Days of Surfing

Aloha mga kapatid. Ako nga pala si TJ. I’m the guy behind LokalSoul.com. I write the articles, I update the Facebook, I take crappy pictures (di parin ako makabili ng lens) and I do mostly everything else. And if you are reading this, I can’t thank you enough. Si Lord na ang bahala sa kabutihan mo. Yes. Bibigyan ka nya ng bagong laptop. By the way, hindi naman ganyan kapangit ang buhok ko. Bagong gising lang ako dyan sa picture.

Last week, March 19 to 21, nagpunta kami sa Baler for the Baler Surf Jam. It was a great event, mostly because it was a simple yet heartfelt competition. I mean hindi man ganun kalaki ang mga prizes, masaya still ang mga nakasali dahil it gave them the chance to show their skills. Halos wala ngang pressure kung papanuorin mo sila. Surf at enjoy lang.

Personally, lahat ng surf spots ay may kanya-kanyang “the best” qualities. Pero iba talaga ang charm ng Baler sa akin. Lahat kasi ng hilig at hinahanap ko, parang andito na. Nature, surf, travel, good food (ay jusko po), friendly locals na parang pamilya kung magturing at marami pa. Dito ako unang nakatikim ng “surfing”, yun tipong surf lesson na merong taga tulak. Almost 1 year ago na yun. Ngayun, about 10 months na ako seryosong nag susurf at marami-rami narin akong napuntahan. Pero marahil, Baler nga ang aking “home break”.

So ayun nga. 10 months pa lang ako na su-surf at beginner na beginner level palang talaga ako. Meron ako nakilalang isang magaling na surfer na taga Manila at sabi nya, about 2 to 3 years bago nya nasabing maayos na ang kanyang paglalaro. 2 to 3 years. Napakalayo ko pa.

So tamang practice lang ako sa white-water. Bumili ako ng 5’7 fish na second-hand last year. Medyo mali nga ang desisyon ko. Hirap na hirap akong matuto sa lecheng board na yan. Ang hirap i-duck dive, ang hirap i-paddle out, ang hirap tayuan dahil ang bilis. Minsan kapag frustrated na ako, seryoso minumura ko yun board ko. Pero honestly love na love ko yan. Kapag naka-ride nako kulang na lang halikan ko sya. Well, come to think of it, ilang beses narin naman sumubsob ang nguso ko sa kanya.

Bihira ako mag-post ng pictures or mag feature ng sarili kong surf trip sa LokalSoul. I made it a point not to feature myself because it’s really not about me. It’s about Philippine Surfing. Ayoko ko sya igaya sa ibang blogs na, “Oh so we went to La Union with my bros and surfed there man!” Well, tsaka na ako mag po-post ng picture ko kapag magaling na ko. Hehe. Matagal-tagal pa naman yon. 2 to 3 years pa, sana nga. At kung dumating man ang panahon na yon ay sana nandito ka parin at nagbabasa.

Minsan siguro naiisip nyo, “Ay sino ba yang punyetang LokalSoul na yan. Marunong ba yang hayup na feeling na surf-surfan bwiset na hinayupak na yan?!”. Hehe. Ayos lang. Lagi ko rin yun iniisip. Kasi ako rin sa sarili ko, ayoko maging peke. Yung feeling-feeling surfer lang. I am not a wannabe, but instead, I want to be. So every time I go surfing, I give my all. I sacrifice a lot of things. Hindi ko na i-eexplain but kung matagal ka na nag su-surf, naiintindihan mo ang kalagayan ko. Beginner ka rin dati at nadanasan mo na ang dinadanas ko. For the record wala pa naman kups na local na gumanun sakin. Hehe. Just thinking out loud.

Anyway, my girlfriend took pictures and here are some of the good ones of me not wiping out. Pansin, nyo ba na puro hingi lang mga pictures na ginagamit ko sa mga blog ng LokalSoul? Wala eh, wala ako pambili ng magagandang lens. Bwiset na lens yan, 60K? Hindi na ok na to, ako na lang lalapit at i-eedit ko na lang.

Ako to! Hehey joke lang! Local yan na kasama ko sa line-up. Lupet nya although nakalimutan ko lang yun pangalan.

cge lang practice

“I realized surfing is not about your ability to maneuver a board, but rather it is about how completely you can experience a moment.”

Nabasa ko yan kanina sa Internet. Sinabi sya ng isang tao na despite na masama ang kanyang physical na karamdaman, ay patuloy parin nag su-surf kahit na hindi kagalingan. Dahil dyan, naisip ko na masuwerte ako dahil ok naman ang pangangatawan ko. Kelangan ko lang ipagpatuloy. Hindi ko lang basta gusto mag surf. Gusto kong gumaling. Anyway, swerte din ako dahil may steady akong trabaho na kahit papano ay natutustusan ang pag surf ko. Kahit twice a month lang ang pinakamadalas. Salamat din dahil meron akong girlfriend na nakakaunawa, kahit na lagi ko syang naiiwan dahil lagi ako nasa dagat. I love you baby. Sorry kung minsan hindi tayo nagkakaintindihan. Pero mahal na mahal kita, higit pa sa board ko.

Ang dami kong natututunan na surfing. Bukod sa stoke na dala ng surfing mismo, there are many things that I value now na dati you take for granted. Marami mang paghihirap, iba yung blessing na ibabalik sayo. And I feel really blessed. Hindi blessed in terms of money or fame or spiritually. Medyo malalim na yun. But I just feel blessed deep inside.

2 to 3 years is quite some time. But in my early days of surfing, I can see myself going further down this road and there’s no turning back. Ang sarap nga ng buhay kapag nag-susurf. Bat nga naman ako titigil.

39 Comments

  1. Angku says:

    Ahem, so andun ka pala last weekend. Andun din kami! Check out my blogs. LOL At okay, ikaw pala si TJ. NIce to meet you.

    Also, 5’7 ang fish mo?? Good luck sa atin. 5’9 naman yung akin. La-la-la. Same sentiments. Pero ang masasabi ko lang, gagaling rin ako. Gagaling rin ako with Milo! πŸ˜‰

    Cheers! Good vibes lang tayo. πŸ™‚

  2. lokalsoul says:

    Angku nice blog! and yes, darating ang panahon. kasabay na natin mga Baler boys sa line-up. surf lang ng surf then who knows it may happen very soon πŸ˜€

  3. unsubcultured says:

    nice blog entry men

  4. Junjie says:

    Dude nice article. We went there last march 18-20 for a travel factor surfvivor. Baler is the place to be, marami na rin kasi akong napuntahan na mga surfing spot pero walang tatalo sa baler. Parang at home talaga dun. Pang tanggal ng stress at makaka surf ka anytime u want. Last year lang din ako nag start pero sa liwa liwa zambales ako nag start. Malakas lang ang current dun.hehehe Anyway kakatapos ko lang din mabayaran ang board ko at madami na syang ding.hehehe 6’3 ang size ng board ko, wrong choice din ang pagbili kaso nasilaw lang sa 50 percent off sa aloha. Anyway itong weekend babalik kami sa baler. Sana maganda ang alon. Cheers!

  5. Gene says:

    “I am not a wannabe, but instead, I want to be.” Ang ganda ng sinabi mo! Ganun din nararamdaman ko. And yesss I also consider Baler my “home break”. Iba tama ng baler sakin. Btw good job to you! Nice articles.

  6. lokalsoul says:

    @Unsub maraming salamat kapatid. @Junjie nice to know your story too bro! pero 6’3 medyo ok narin yan, 50% off pa haha. ayos surf lang ng surf. Baler is awesome. sali kayo sa dadating na Aurora Beginners Cup! check it out -> http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=195171617171641

  7. kat says:

    Im sorry for the times when I don’t understand. I know that this is your happiness, and im happy when you are. I WILL ALWAYS BE YOUR NUMBER ONE FAN. And I won’t get tired of standing on the shore for hours to capture your little triumphs. Please do not get tired of teaching me how to surf (and swim) too! LOL. I love you and im proud of you baby πŸ™‚

  8. surfflΓ© says:

    rad blog/post!! thanks for keeping us all posted on the philippine surfing scene!! your reader from san clemente, california.

    … the waves were like endless frothy barricades. I’d been paddling for twenty minutes and I still wasn’t outside. I pushed and pumped and heaved and whined. The sea punched and kicked and jammed sand down my throat. And in the midst of this abuse, I realized how much I loved surfing.

    Jaimal Yogi β€œSaltwater Buddha”

  9. lokalsoul says:

    @Kat i love you too. @Surffle wow san clemente! thanks for dropping by and THANK YOU for introducing Jaimal Yogi to me πŸ™‚

  10. JPG says:

    Ayos ‘to brader! Napakatotoo at walang halong BS. Dapat ganito tayong lahat. Beginner din ako kaya nakaka relate ako sa mga sinasabi mo.
    So, hindi pala talaga okay ang short board sa mga nagsisimula? Bibili pa lang din kasi ako ng board eh πŸ™‚ Anyway, good job sa blog na ‘to. Keep it up!

  11. joko says:

    good job TJ! πŸ™‚

  12. lokalsoul says:

    @JPG haha salamat brader! oo the best daw talaga is mga fun board para ma practice ang mga basics. kaso wala eh andito na to so tyaga tyaga na lang ako sa board ko. see you sa lineup soon at salamat sa pag-basa kapatid!

    @Joko haha thank you and thanks for stopping by!

  13. Jesseboi says:

    Hey bro! 2005 palang pangarap mo na talaga to, ngayon ginagawa mo na. tuloy mo lang man, sana masabayan kita at maturuan moko ng basics, hopefully. lam mo naman hanggang skate and longboard lang ako, pero I’ve always wanted to surf, ngayon may magle-lead na sakin, at ikaw yon. hehe

  14. rasta says:

    more power to lokal soul and more power to your surfing career bro!

    life is too short, go surfing!

    kitakits sa line up πŸ™‚

  15. lokalsoul says:

    @Derek since 2005 wow. oo nag pa Zambales-zambales lang tayo tambay sa beach sabay rent ng board. good times. kaya nga i decided to follow my dreams. hindi naman sya ganun ka unreachable. step by step lang bro. pili ka ng araw, susurf tayo πŸ™‚

    @Rasta salamat sa dala mong good vibes. tama. life is short!

  16. Jasmine Tan says:

    Hello Tj! I admire your determination and perseverance in surfing which is very rare especially for those who do not have the pleasure to surf anytime as the ocean is far away from the city. You exemplify a “real soul surfer”. The feeling of “stoked” as they call it, is very much innate and definitely not felt by all those who get into surfing. There is no superficiality, just pure passion, love of the waves and the corresponding lifestyle/culture intricately attached to it. I feel your incomparable happiness when you’re out there playing. Sooo good, all you think about is the coming set and just take the waves and whaallahh …there goes your instant pleasure at its finest.

    Also, I am very proud of your work in promoting surfing all over the Philippines, it’s very informative, no biases, all good vibrations, excitement, adventure and most especially the love of our Lokal Surfers from North to South. Congratulations to you and to Lokal Soul Surfing. We are very proud of your exquisite work. Cheers!

    Thank you.
    Jasmine

  17. lokalsoul says:

    Ja what you said is so heartwarming. i can’t express how happy i am to hear such words. but thank you and hope to see you again real soon πŸ™‚

  18. Ton Corpuz says:

    Sir I can say without a doubt that you were able to capture the feeling of being new to surfing at its bare essentials. Sagad sa buto ‘yung pagiging real nito pre.

    You should also get mad props for putting this website up for sheer passion. All the while I thought this was a collaboration of people into surfing. Now I realize it’s bigger than that: it’s born from the passion of one man. Astig ka pre!

  19. lokalsoul says:

    thank you Ton πŸ™‚

  20. rox says:

    cool man. more power! mabuhay ka!

  21. lokalsoul says:

    salamat!

  22. karina says:

    nice post sir!

    relate! hahaha. XD

    i hope i can contribute to lokalsoul soon. πŸ™‚

    more power sir! πŸ™‚

  23. lokalsoul says:

    thanks Karina. sure please do contribute! we need it hahaha

  24. buck says:

    Kudos fellow surfer!

  25. lokalsoul says:

    thanks brother!

  26. keng says:

    ayos. gusto ko rin matuto mag-surf. mahirap ba talaga? nagpunta kame sa baler last week lang pero hindi nagkaroon ng chance para mag-lesson. any advice para sa mga magsstart palang ng surfing?

  27. lokalsoul says:

    Keng. advice ko tlaga is to get lessons. yun may instructor. lahat sa kanya mo matutunan. do it mga twice or thrice depende sayo. then if feeling mo kaya mo na, mag rent ka nlng ng board sa subukan mo mag paddle out magisa πŸ™‚

  28. drix says:

    seeing this made me wanna go surfing SOON!

    another I should include in my travel bucket list!

    hope to meet you guys!

  29. drix says:

    seeing this made me wanna go surfing SOON!

    another thing I should include in my travel bucket list!

    hope to meet you guys!

  30. lokalsoul says:

    come to the event!

  31. tina says:

    Very nice site! Informative for me, lalo na now I am beginning to be addicted in surfing! I tried Baler and La union, now I am scouting for other places where the swell is good πŸ˜€

  32. lokalsoul says:

    thanks TIna! hey you got a good thing going too on your blog! hope you can feature us there. haha. keep on surfing, life is better when you surf πŸ™‚

  33. sandtoes says:

    Hey TJ! I think this is one of my favorite entries. For a while I was wondering who was behind this blog so it was great to write a bit about yourself. And I love the honesty behind the piece. I remember writing similar thoughts about being a beginner in the line up. Shared it here: http://mikaka.multiply.com/journal/item/56 :p

    Great blog! Keep the articles coming!!

  34. lokalsoul says:

    hi Mika. thanks for dropping by and thanks for the kind words! i believe ive had the pleasure of meeting you. not sure if you remember it though. haha.

    i can’t seem to open the link, it’s private. and i dont have a multiply page. i really wish to read it though. i know you guys have been surfing long and you’ve been around and experienced a lot of good things πŸ™‚

    thanks for reading!

  35. V says:

    Hi TJ,

    Sobrang nakakarelate ako sa article mo. Ang galing! Napaka-honest. I mean, everyone has to start somewhere, right? And kailangan honest ka din sa skill level mo. Ako naman this year lang natuto. Nagsimula sa longboard then eventually (bumili kasi ako ng 2nd hand din) nag 6’0 thruster ako. Di pa ako expert (sabi mo nga 2-3 years pa) but i never give up kahit minsan nakaka-frustrate. Charge ulit.

    Paddle to your heart’s content. Life is short. Surf.

    Keep up the good work

  36. lokalsoul says:

    brader maraming salamat. hehe. oo nga. charge lang ng charge kahit gaano ka frustrating. yun reward naman, kapag naka ride ka na, huwooowwww. nothing in this world like surfing.

    sana magkita tayo sa lineup. thanks ulit sa pagbisita sa LokalSoul.com hehe

  37. Nognog says:

    first time ko mag surf sa hawaii pre, nakapunta lang ako dun dahil sa trabaho tinuruan kami ng boss ko. sa hawaii, ang surfing parang pag bi-bisikleta lang, no big deal, mga nag su-surfing dun mataba, panget, nag yo-yosi, di tulad ng mga nakikita natin sa tv na malaki katawan, di ko lam ba’t feeling cool yung mga tao pag dito na sa pilipinas, siguro kasi out of reach sha ng mga karamihan dahil may perception na mahal yung sport at marami dito di marunong lumangoy.

    anyways, pano ba pumunta at may contact number ka ba ng mga resort sa crystal beach? thanks!

  38. lokalsoul says:

    hahaha. feeling cool eh no. brader check out mo: http://lokalsoul.com/2010/08/13/surfing-in-zambales-how-to-get-there/

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